JULY 1993. MEMORIES OF A REUNION WITH COUNTRY AND
FRIENDS
By John Nazareth
15 July 1993: The day is here at last. I cannot believe I am going back to the land
of my birth after 20 years. It was August 1973 when I left to do postgraduate
study in London, having taken a leave-of-absence from the Ministry of Finance
and Planning, never realizing that it would be so long before I'd be back. For
my wife Cynthia, it has been even longer; she left in July 1972 on a holiday
(she was just my girlfriend then) and was not allowed to return. We are
anxiously looking forward to not only see familiar places, but to meet many
friends whom we just did not expect to not see for so long. We bring along our
son Paul (17) and daughter Rachel (13) to show them their Ugandan heritage.
Strangely, even though I could not come to Uganda all these years,
Uganda came to me. Through a chance meeting (thanks to my brother Peter) with
Claude Dusaide, who was doing his Ph D at York University, I came to know the
whole Black Ugandan community in Toronto - around 100 families. (I consider
myself a Ugandan, African [and Goan, Canadian, Indian], so how else to
explain.) There were several St. Mary’s College (SMC) Kisubi Old-boys, my
classmate Ben Ssenyonjo, Louis Kizito, Joe Tomusange - then High Commissioner
to Canada; colleagues from Makerere: John-Draks Ssemakula (ex- Namilyango
Toast), and Bakulu-Mpagi Wamala; Mrs John Kakonge and family, and many more.
(Bakulu was a dear friend and I miss him terribly. Uganda lost a great, great
son.)
17 July 1993: We land in Nairobi to spend a few days with Edgar and Tess Desa. Tess
was Cynthia's old classmate in Gayaza High School (1967-68) and Edgar's brother
Vince had studied with me in Makerere (Med School 1970). We visit Joe Tomusange
(SMC SC 1966) who is now Uganda's High Commissioner in Kenya. (We know Joe from
his days as High Commissioner to Canada.) Joe is a great High Commissioner -
just what we need to make Uganda and Kenya friends again. He is dignified, yet
humble - he makes time for everybody, big and small. My children have a great
regard for him. While I am waiting to meet Joe, I look through his visitors'
book to see if I know anyone. Lo and behold, there was Stephen Nabeta. Stephen
and I were classmates in primary school 1958-60; we were both in the Scouts
together at that time; I scribble down his telephone number.
21 July 1993: At the airport in Nairobi, finally waiting for my flight to Entebbe.
Had a minor accident and while I am resolving the problem, a co-traveller
inquires with Cynthia whether all is okay. I come back and discover that he is
a former classmate of mine from St Mary's - Joseph Muchope (SC 1964). A few
minutes later while we are talking, we are joined by Ezra Bunyenyezi, an old
friend. Ezra is a goldmine, he has phone numbers of a whole host of friends I
am looking for. I asked about Chris Ssendegeya Kibirige (SMC SC 1964), he says
he knows a Prof Kibirige in Makerere Math Dept; can't be Chris. (But more
later.) Yet another few minutes later and Chris Kassami walks by; Chris and I
joined the Ministry of Finance and Planning around the same time. He looks like
he is in his twenties, so young that it takes me some time to recognise him.
(He is now the Permanent Secretary of the Ministry.) Hey, Uganda, can't you wait till I arrive, do you have to send out a
welcoming party to Nairobi?
Finally arrive at Entebbe. Leave the plane and kiss the ground. Uganda,
I am back.
Arthur De Mello, and old friend who wouldn't let anyone make him leave
Uganda, is there to collect us. He is looking good.
We drive to Kampala. The scenery is great; Boy is it good to be back.
Hmm, houses in the countryside aren't built of mud anymore, they are using
mortar and bricks. Notice a lot of roadside vendors selling fruit on the way.
Food is still plentiful; this place could be the breadbasket of Africa. Finally
entering Kampala. The place has expanded - certainly more than 7 hills now. We
settle in at Fairview Hotel, which is close to the Golf Course, and close to
Arthur's place.
22 July 1993: We rent a car and drive around. The family keep reminding me to
"keep left". We go to the Uganda Development Corporation (UDC) where
Cynthia used to work. Cynthia meets the same old office receptionist who brings
tears to her eyes. We inquire about Mrs Picho Ali, a dear friend; (she named
her son John after me), but no news.
Visit Christ the King Church, and are amazed to find out how much people
pray. Lunch-time rosary too!
Drop in to parliament to search for old friends; the session has just
ended. While there, someone says - " Hey! I know you, you're from
Kisubi." It's Omara-Atubo. It's good to see him. I brought greetings for
him from Louis Kizito in Toronto. He says the next session will be next
Tuesday, and I promise to be back to search for other friends. I realize that
Omara is in a bit of trouble, having read a lot from Uganda newsletters at the
High Commission in Canada, and pray for his deliverance; we need more Kisubi
guys in Parliament.
Pop in to see Mulago Hospital. Proceed to the Cancer Research Institute,
which I had heard was headed by Dr Edward Katongole-Mbide (SMC HC 1966), an old
classmate; would I be lucky and find him there? I am in luck, he is in. Even
greater luck, my son is doing all the Video recording and captures Edward and
me embracing to make up for 20 years. It is great to see him, and he is in good
shape. It is good to know that not all the good people fled the country. We
record a message for Dr Bernard Fernandes, Edward's colleague from Makerere who
is now Associate Professor at the University of Toronto and a Clinical
Pathologist at Mount Sinai Hospital.
We drive around Kampala, show the kids where their mother used to have a
flat when she was working for the UDC, and where I used to court her. Kampala
is beautiful in spite of the evidence of the war, and the hard times. The roads
are in great shape (better than Nairobi's) and the city is pretty clean.
In the evening we meet Arthur's family for dinner.
23 July 1993 (Friday): Start off early and drive towards Entebbe. But first, a stop at St
Mary's College Kisubi. The place looks in great shape. The children cannot
believe that they are finally seeing the place that I had related so many
stories about. My wife had been here on school dances, but not too often as she
says the Gayaza Headmistress preferred Budo; she used to hide Kisubi's
invitations. (Incidentally she recalled that while at Gayaza, she met Bakulu Wamala
who was at Budo at the time. Small world.) I showed them the classroom where,
during night study in 1962 Ssendegeya (not Kibirige) had held a frog to a
window, scaring Kkolokolo (S 2B) who thought it was a snake and proceeded to
run out screaming, dragging first his whole class, and then the whole school,
some jumping through windows slashing themselves. (We had talked about this
often.)
While waiting to meet the Headmaster, we walk into the next room, and
there are our old Class pictures. The family sees me, their uncle Cyril
Fernandes (SC 1964; he married my sister), Muchope - who we had just met, and
others. Finally we meet Br Tinkasimire. I find out later that he is briefing
his staff as his father has just died and he has to leave. We have a long chat
about many topics. I am amazed to see so many women teachers. Before leaving we
roam around, and as I peek in the Biology Lab, there is Sebastian Nsubuga!
Sebastian (the Lab Assistant) who started working there in 1947! He is pleased
to see us and shows the children around; they are impressed with his work.
Walked through the school Church where I had served as Sacristan together with
Tony Carvalho and Gaston Ndyajunwoha.
On to Entebbe. This is really home. I had lived here longer than
anywhere else (although Toronto is catching up). We see all our Goan friends'
houses and take videos and pictures to show those in Toronto. We see the house
where my two brothers, sister and I were born. I cannot control my excitement,
and it rubs off onto my family. Entebbe is beautiful, but most of the roads are
in bad shape; some of Uganda's agonies can be seen in these roads, twisted, tortured,
pot-holed. (But the people have survived with surprisingly good spirits. The
characteristic friendliness I knew was still there. For a country that has
suffered so much, one does not see a hint of meanness in the spirit, or the
evidence in their psyche of the violence that had become endemic. They seem to
have come to a good balance between the old culture and the modern world.
Perhaps we have all suffered so much that we are determined to make the best of
things from now on.) The Botanical Gardens must have been rehabilitated
recently - it looks just wonderful.
Then on to Bugonga Parish. On the way we passed Mugwanya Road School,
where I had spent three years. I'll never forget those days. What about the
time Kadu Kironde was captaining our cricket side against the European School
and he declared after we had scored 30 runs (because he was out). Hey Kadu, I
know you are out there and I hear good things about you, but we did do some
crazy things then, and you were quite a rascal (I wish I could tell your
children of our escapades).
(Talking about children, when I first met John Kakonge's daughters, one
(Victoria?) asked me what politics was like in the 1960s. I found myself
explaining things about her father to her! I realized then that I could well be
more Ugandan than she was as she had spent most of her years outside the
country because of the troubles. But, I digress.)
Ah Bugonga (officially known as Sacred Heart Church). The church looks
good; they are renovating the inside, but it is substantially the same. To
think how many years I served Mass at altar server here. We meet the Parish
Priest and inquire about Fr Kyeyune, who had been our Parish Priest in 1972 (we
lost touch with him in 1989). Luckily the priest is Fr Kyeyune's nephew and so
we find out that he is in Rubaga. We present some priest vestments that we had
got from our Parish in Mississauga.
From there to Lake Victoria Hotel where we have lunch; it is in better
shape than when I left in 1973. Here I buy a book "Uganda Since Independence"
by Phares Mutibwa - a great book, that taught me a number of things I was too
young to know about then. (On my return to Toronto I happened to mentioned
Mutibwa to my brother Peter Nazareth, who is Professor of English at the
University of Iowa, he said "Hey! He used to be my classmate in Makerere;
I always wondered where he got to.")
Then the down side, I go to visit my father's gravesite at the old
Catholic Cemetery off the airport road near the old Printing Department. The
place is so overrun with vegetation that it is impossible to see the cemetery.
I go on sheer memory and brave snakes to look; my family cannot follow me. Then
after twenty minutes I find a few graves, including Helen De Mello’s, and
Trevor D’Souza’s dad’s. So this is the correct site. But my father's was in
such bad shape that I could not find the exact one. Ah well, I guess most
people were so busy struggling to stay alive in the hard years that caring for
the dead had to take a low priority. I will do something when I get back to
Toronto.
24 July 1993 (Sat): I now realize that it was a mistake going to Entebbe yesterday. I
should have tried to contact people first. Now I will have to wait two days for
Monday. Carry on touring places. On to Jinja, where my wife was raised.
My wife actually lived in Lukumbi, 10 miles before Jinja, as her father
was the manager of a coffee plantation. We drive towards her old house off the
main road. The murram road is in terrible, terrible shape, meant for 4-wheel
drives, and here I am with my little car. In some spots everyone has to get out
so that I can drive. Only God helps me manage. Suddenly, someone greets us; he
is the current assistant manager. He knew that if a car was coming in, it could
only be from the Fernandes’ who once lived there. He gives my wife a tour. But
most of the coffee plantation is gone, cut down to grow maize (to survive the
tough times). Cynthia's house is not there anymore; its bricks were taken away
to build other things; times were tough. The assistant manager urges Cynthia to
come back and help rebuild the place. How can we? Uganda keeps tugging at our
hearts.
In Jinja, the Falls looks beautiful, we see Cynthia's old school,
scenery etc.. The town is clean and seems to have been untouched by the war. We
stop at Cynthia's sister's former house. As we are watching, a man walks up and
asks us whether it was our house, and we explain. He then says "Why
doesn't your sister come and reclaim it?" We say, "Why don't you tell
her, we will video tape you." "But why don't you tell her", he
replies. "It's your country", says Cynthia. "But it is your
country too", he ends. And this from a stranger. Is it any wonder that we
love this country so much? Our children are absorbing all this.
25 July 1993 (Sun): Attend Mass at Christ the King Church. The place is overflowing into
the parking lot. The singing is beautiful. On to Rubaga Cathedral. The
Cathedral is more beautiful than ever. All the services are over, but there is
a lone organist playing pop songs in the Cathedral. (The songs are not too
extravagant for a church and sound good.) Trying to find Fr Kyeyune. When we
are about to give up, he walks out. A big embrace. We talk about old days. He
takes us to the shrine of the late Cardinal Nsubuga, who we had befriended in
Toronto when he came there several years ago.
Later: we are videotaping Kampala from near the top of Kololo Hill. We
cannot get to the top because the army has taken it over. As we are taping a
soldier saunters over. (We then remember Joe Tomusange's warning: "John,
take care when you are taking pictures".) He says: "Why don't you
come with me to the top of our house; the view is better." We politely
decline, he insists. The view is better. Boy, has the army changed.
26 July 1993 (Mon): Visit Makerere University. Show the children all the halls, and the
Math Department, where I studied, New Hall (now Nkrumah) where I lived, the Box
(Mary Stuart Hall).. . Go to the English Department to give them a few copies
of my brother Peter's novel: "The General Is Up". Meet Prof Arthur
Gakwanda, who informs me that they are teaching both of Peter's novels (the
other being "In a Brown Mantle"). He insists that I make a formal
presentation of the book. (Peter is widely known as a Ugandan writer.) My son
Paul takes a picture of the presentation.
I then go to see Prof Joe Carasco (Biochemistry), who was my colleague
in Makerere (Mitchell Hall 1971). With his big bushy beard, he is a well-known
figure around town. Everyone knows him as "The Professor". Joe is a
Namilyango OB, also of the Namilyango-toast days. While having lunch with Joe I
mention Kibirige; he knows him and will take me there. While walking I notice
someone familiar, a SMC O-B, "This is Kibirige" he says. It turns out
that he is Chris's brother and Chris is in Nairobi working for UNESCO. Eureka!
Later: We visit Gayaza High School. Cynthia is disappointed that none of
her old teachers are around, but a teacher who was a young student when Cynthia
was there takes us around. We see a student on the list named Nabeta. Cynthia
remembers that Christina Nabeta (Stephen's sister) was Headgirl when she was
there. Small world.
Back in Kampala: I drop in to see an old schoolmate Edward Ssekandi[1] (SMC HSC
1963?), who is practicing law. From him I find out exactly where J.B. Walusimbi[2] (my SMC
classmate) has his Engineering practice, and go to see him too. (I had heard
about his whereabouts from a common classmate, Anthony Carvalho, who is in
Guinea working on a USAID engineering project.) I came to find friends, but I
can't believe I found so many of them.
Word is beginning to get round that I am in town, but I will be leaving
in a few days! I get the impression that if we were to stay one more week there
would be wild parties.
27 July 1993 (Tues): Not a great day. I miss practically everybody. Go to the Bank of
Uganda to see Obura; he isn't in. I said I would try and get back, but never
get the chance. Go to see Celestine Opobo (who used to work with me in Min of
Planning) at Foreign Affairs, no luck (turns out I went to the wrong ministry).
Try to see Stephen Nabeta, his secretary says he is tied up in a meeting. Try
to find James Kahoza (a colleague of my brother's), find out that he is now
Auditor General, but have no luck finding his office.
Return to Parliament, didn't see Omara or anyone else I knew: Kawanga
(SMC SC 1964), Dr Ojok-Mulozi (found out he is not an MP anymore). Almost got
into trouble moving around trying to get a better view. The security officer
smiled when I explained.
Cynthia is luckier. We are walking around the National Theatre when
Cynthia bumps into an old classmate from Gayaza, Stella Kahem. Screams,
embraces, long talks. She will come with friends tomorrow.
Our children are by now baffled. How is it we are so comfortable here
with everyone, people are so happy to see us, and give us big embraces, and yet
we were "kicked out". I explain, but don't really need to; their eyes
see everything.
Go to the Martyrs' Shrine, Namugongo (see one of the doors donated by
J.B. Walusimbi) and pray there. Buy several books on the martyrs to take back
for friends. I remember many friends who had died, including Godfrey Kiggala
(SMC SC 1964).
That evening I call I.K. Kabanda and go immediately to pay a short
visit. IK used to be my Permanent Secretary in Finance & Planning 1971/2
and was very good to me. (His wife is a Gayaza OG and so gives Cynthia special
attention.) I will never forget his graciousness during the 1972 Expulsion and
the aftermath.
28 July 1993 (Wed): Arthur takes us fishing in Entebbe with his beautiful boat. The
fishing is good - we catch four Nile Perch in a few hours. It is hard to
believe you can catch Nile Perch in Lake Victoria now. The scenery is
breathtaking, and the children realize why we called Uganda, our Paradise Lost.
(It is good to see paradise reawakening.)
Back in Kampala we go to see Julie Okoth (nee Fernandes) who used to
share a flat with Cynthia in 1971. It is good to see her. There find out the
bad news that her brother Alex's wife had passed away a few years ago.
That evening we invite a few people to our hotel for a drink as Afrigo
Band is playing. Cynthia's two classmates Stella and another are there. Tried
to get Walusimbi since yesterday, but we keep crossing each other. Left a
message for Ezra, no luck. Couldn't contact Katongole... The Professor, Arthur
and wife Jean, Joe Fernandes make it. Listening to Afrigo was great; (we bought
several of their tapes yesterday). Paul and Rachel can't believe their eyes
when Afrigo did their traditional Muganda number with dance. (Watch those
bottoms shake at the speed of light!)
29 July 1993 (Thur): Wake up early and head for the airport. We leave for Nairobi. It has
been too short, but thanks to Jesus, we made it. Arrive in Nairobi and head for
four days in Mombasa by train. Meet a number of Goan friends. Also meet Ashley
Pinto (SMC 1962) who is doing well for himself. We meet after 31 years!
4 August 1993: Back in Nairobi with Edgar and Tess. Tried day and evening to get
Chris Kibirige. Finally get him. Arrange to meet the next day. That evening we
have a drink with Joe Tomusange; he is keen to see all the videos we had. We
took 8 hours of them, but have time for about 2 hours.
5 August 1993: Finally, finally I meet Chris. Chris and I (besides being classmates
in SMC) used to be good friends in 1972/73. I reflect: how we all scattered
without exchanging addresses I will never understand. Perhaps we thought we
would always have each other around. But on this trip I try to make up for it,
and now, here is Chris. We can meet for only an hour or so as Chris is working
and I am leaving for Toronto the same day, but this time we will keep in touch.
He reminds me that I taught him how to drive in Kampala.
Later I go to see Prof Tony Rodrigues (SMC HSC 1963 - Prefect of Kakoza
1963 too), the one with the sweet voice and the accordion). He is Head of the
Computer Department at the University of Nairobi. I find out that Chris and he
know each professionally through UNESCO programs at the U of N. We remember old
times.
9:00pm: We finally leave for the airport to head for another home:
Toronto. We are sad, but we are also happy. We did everything we wanted to. I
wish I had met more people (where is J.B. Kifa?), but we have made contact. God
bless Uganda and all its people.
On the way back I wonder about our homes: Goa, Uganda, Toronto; we feel
a sense of belonging in all. Goa: our father, Uganda: our mother, Toronto: our
adopted parents. We go back with renewed vigour to help Uganda. Ben Ssenyonjo,
his wife Dr Joyce Nsubuga, and I had founded an association: "Friends of
Uganda", through which we had sent 12,000 education books to Uganda in
1991/92 with Joe Tomusange's help for transportation. We have to keep on.
If you are wondering what I did since leaving Uganda in 1973 (besides
getting married and have two great children) I studied at the London School of
Economics (Dip Stats), University of Toronto (M.Sc. Stats) and York University
(MBA). I am now a Reliability Project Engineer with Litton Systems, an
electronics company. If you have flown on Boeing 727s, 737s, 747s, you were
probably using our Inertial Guidance Systems.
John Nazareth
Toronto, 1994
Postscript 2018: In
1995 I joined Bombardier Aerospace (which had acquired De Havilland in 1992)and
worked as Chief of Maintenance Data Analysis within the Reliability Engineering
department. My group collected data and publishes statistics to help our
aircraft maintain good reliability and safety. I retired in September 2015.
[2] Postscript 2018:
Walusimbi served as Katikkiro of Buganda 2008-2013. Katikkiro is a position
similar to a Provincial Premier.
